In my opinion... How to get the best out of Mumbai

Previous Front Page Opinions are archived here.

Emma Levine, whose photo exhibition 'Mumbai - a Cricketing Temple runs 22 February to 4 March at the Nehru Centre, 8 South Audeley St, London W1, goes in search of cricket

The outstanding attractions of India’s commercial, chaotic capital Mumbai showcases well its colonial history. It’s a city comprising British Victorian architecture; pavement book-stalls piled high with English literature and American self-help books; achingly trendy coffee shop chains; food stalls selling pau bhaji to hungry office workers; and millions of commuters pouring through Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus.

But, in my opinion, for the best snapshot of this mesmerizing city, station yourself at Oval Maidan on Sunday, watching back-to-back cricket matches unfolding.

A microcosm of Mumbai (perhaps even India itself), this maidan (open space or park) is a Grade I heritage site, encircled by stubby palm trees. It’s watched over by the majestic Rajabai Tower, designed by Sir Gilbert Scott inspired by Big Ben. But most of all, it’s a home of grass-roots cricket.

Some teams play in sparkling white kit with full equipment, others a raggle-taggle group with a couple of tennis balls and a bat, box and gloves to share. At first glance it looks a chaotic, almost anarchic activity.

But closer look and you’ll see a working system. Each game has its pitch and overlapping playing area, umpire and scorer. If a ball is skied into another area of the ground, cries of ‘ball ball ball …’ get the attention of whichever fielder it lands on. It’s organized chaos that works – much like India’s railway system.

It’s a very British game, but India is currently ranked the world’s Number One, and co-host of this month’s World Cup. The country is cricket’s financial kingpin, taking control of TV advertising revenue by the scruff of its neck.

Cricket is the only passion uniting a vast nation speaking a hundred language and worships even more gods. And talking of gods, mention Sachin Tendulkar’s name and you’ll make friends for life on Oval Maidan.

© Emma Levine, Feb 2011