Peter Lynch

If you read the FCO travel advice you probably wouldn't visit Zimbabwe - which is a shame because it's a beautiful and fascinating country. Strange how South Africa’s murder rate of 58 people per day isn’t off-putting for tourists?

Having just returned from Zimbabwe where I met some of the friendliest and most welcoming people, still surprisingly proud of some British traditions they've inherited. Of course they’re glad to be independent and there are some greedy and dangerous people – just like everywhere else. As for dishonest and morally lapse politicians – we don't have to look far to find them!

Poverty is commonplace but so is ostentatious wealth with Mercedes, BMWs and flash 4X4s commonplace in Harare but I saw no starvation and more smiles that you ever see travelling around Britain.

Yes, the country is in an economic mess and internal political squabbling seems to be more about pride and self-interest than the welfare of the people – but where have I heard that before?

On the ground things are definitely looking up: the day-to-day economy has stabilised now the USD is the main currency, ATMs work, shops are full of food and goods, garages have plenty of fuel and people feel that things are getting better. Prices are high for average salaries of $125–150, so life is not easy,
even for those with a job; nevertheless there were fewer beggars than on London streets.

The number of police roadblocks around the country is disconcerting, especially on the Bulawayo to Harare road. Some have armed soldiers but more disturbing are the men in civvies who never show ID but appear to be in charge. Generally they're polite but there's no doubt they would unsettle a timid traveller. The UNWTO have just agreed to train a new force of Zimbabwe Tourist Police for 2010, and if they have independent powers and genuine authority this will be a great assurance for future tourists.